Railroad Forums 

  • Maximum HO grades for HO?

  • Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.

Moderators: 3rdrail, stilson4283, Otto Vondrak

 #649047  by Mem160
 
I didn't realize Atlas had HO Code 100 in 28" Radius, Shinohara does, which was my only reason for suggesting that. Flextrack would work as well, but I happen to prefer a manufactured radius in some cases. As far as Flex Track and Turnouts, I also use mostly atlas, unless I need curved turnouts.

----> Mark
 #649121  by Head-end View
 
I'm looking at Atlas catalog & website and it appears the widest radius curve they make is 22 or 24 inch. I'm probably going to use 26 and 28, so I'm leaning towards Bachmann's E-Z track which is available in those sizes and even 33 inch. They also make a nice set of crossovers. Both brands are carried at my local hobby shop. Can I assume Bachmann's quality is as good as Atlas?

BTW, can you guys explain the real difference between code-83 and code-100? Is it just the size of the ties, or is the 100 rail actually larger? And Wayne, you said something about 100 track being "forgiving". How do you mean that?
 #649141  by Mem160
 
Code is rail height; 83 is said to be more prototypical, but 100 has deeper flange ways, due, of course, to the height of the rail. The Code 83 is more to scale, the ties are smaller, but more proportionately correct. I use mostly 100, with 70 for sidings and branch lines, and some 55 for industrial spurs. I've also had some Micro Engineering Code 100, which has Code 83 Atlas Style ties, but with Code 100 rail, a bit more expensive, If I recall correctly. I can't say I use Bachmann EZ Track, but I believe it is pretty decent, but you can't get flex track in EZ Track. One of the nice things about the turnouts is that I believe that the switch motors are below the roadbed, so there is no eyesores and also no need to go through the sheer aggravation of installing Tortoises (which are nice once installed).

You can also get track radius gauges, from Ribbon Rails I think it is, which will aid in laying any flex track to the proper radius.

----> Mark
 #649338  by keeper1616
 
When I set up the train around the Christmas tree, I use Bachmann EZ track. It is high quality track. Not very prototypical, and I'd never replace flextrack with it, but for the first layout, or one what will be taken apart often, it is fine.
 #649581  by Head-end View
 
A buddy suggested I use Atlas-100, and their flex-track to make the 28" curves. That might be a solution....... :-D

Also, does anyone know if Bachmann E-Z Track is code-83 or 100, or something else? Their catalog doesn't seem to mention that, while Atlas clearly says that their True-Track is code-83.
 #649587  by Mem160
 
EZ Track I think is 100 --> If you go with flex Track, solder the ends of a pair of them into one 6' section while straight, then when you lay the track, the curve WILL be much smoother; No kinks.....

..... Mark
 #649866  by Flat-Wheeler
 
My suggestion is use the Atlas code 100 with their 100 flex. Put in 34" curves on each end of a 28" radius curve. In other words, sandwich your 28" curve between two easement curves (also known as transition curves). Stay away and avoid Bachman track, and do not put any grades on your layout until you're ready for a more advanced layout with longer stretches of track. Also, any turnouts you use, need to be the longer variety to accommodate the longer cars you have. Atlas offers #6 and #8 turnouts, and I'd suggest staying away from the #4 turnouts.
 #650190  by Head-end View
 
Thanks Flat-Wheeler. I was already figuring on #6 turnouts..............What's the purpose of the transition curves and why do you say not to use Bachmann track? You might be right about the grades. The above-mentioned link included a chart showing that you need a 12-ft. run just to get a 3-inch height using a 2% grade. BTW, will a 3-inch height even clear an HO loco running under it?

Oh, and one other question guys..........if you use Atlas-100, do you necessarily have to put some kind of ballast under it? (A buddy uses cork) Or can you just nail the track to the plywood surface? I'm told it's noisy if you do that?
 #650206  by Mem160
 
Use cork roadbed, or even Homasote, which is a greyish colored board that comes in a sheet like plywood would; I've used both with sucess. You can also use 2" extruded foam board which comes in 2x8 sections; it also comes in 1" or 1/2" thickness, but if you use 2" you can cut rivers and add trestles, to me it's easier than cutting out the plywood. I have used foam and homasote and my preference is homasote instead of the foam. It is MUCH MUCH quieter, whereas the foam seems to almost echo. Only lay ballast down AFTER the track has been laid. I think you could get away with #4 turnouts on spurs for cars 50' or less, but as mentioned above, on crossovers, if you double track your layout, or for spurs for cars such as Auto Racks, don't go with anything less than a #6. There are #5 turnouts on the market now, but I've never used them. You may consider buying a book or two with layout plans on them, you don't sound like you actually have a particular plan yet, so a book like this can give you some concepts. Try looking in modelrailroader.com 's bookstore: http://kalmbachcatalog.stores.yahoo.net ... ideas.html or http://kalmbachcatalog.stores.yahoo.net ... nning.html

http://kalmbachcatalog.stores.yahoo.net ... books.html

I know it's expensive, but you'll really learn alot of tips from most of these books. If you subscribe to Model Railroader, you can also search their website for track plans. Railroad Model Craftsman is another good magazine, but I don't believe their site is as thorough as MR's.
 #650362  by Flat-Wheeler
 
Head-end View wrote:Thanks Flat-Wheeler. I was already figuring on #6 turnouts..............What's the purpose of the transition curves and why do you say not to use Bachmann track? You might be right about the grades. The above-mentioned link included a chart showing that you need a 12-ft. run just to get a 3-inch height using a 2% grade. BTW, will a 3-inch height even clear an HO loco running under it? .......if you use Atlas-100, do you necessarily have to put some kind of ballast under it? (A buddy uses cork) Or can you just nail the track to the plywood surface? I'm told it's noisy if you do that?
Transition / easement curves are used by real railroads when entering a sharp curve. It basically is a gradual reduction in radius from the straight to the middle of the curve, or in other words the curve gets sharper towards the center of the turn, and then gradually eases back to a straight. It serves to reduce lateral/ centripetal forces on the train and outside rail on tight curves. Usually the railroad will gracefully combine this with "super elevation". A super elevated curve is one that has track tilt downward towards the inside of the curve, so they outside rail is higher than the inside rail. It is similar concept to a banked turn on car racing track, except much less noticeable. Again, this is another form of art for the more advanced modeler to replicate. It's not that easy, and if you don't get it right, long cars and engines derail consistently.

A 3" height from top of rail head to rail head top, will clear an HO loco, and quite likely a hi-cube boxcar. Just don't forget you need to accommodate the bridge depth plus clear cars a lil' bit taller than the engine.

You don't have to ballast, or put anything under your Atlas 100 track. However, ballast looks more real. Cork, foam, homasote, or whatever you put underneath serve to absorb the noise, and to lift the track up from the surrounding ground level terrain (for water runoff & drainage on the prototype).
 #662077  by Dieter
 
I used Shinohara switches, and am still having trouble trying to fit them properly with what is supposed to be the proper crossings. Stick with Atlas switches and flex, Model Power flex is the worst to work with on curves unless you want to economize and only use them exclusively on straight stretches.

D/
 #847123  by superbad
 
we had a unique situation getting to an upper level of our layout.. we had to go up and over the hot water heater, which resulted in a long 4-5% with a brief 6-7%(in all the 4%+ is about 6ft long, another bad part of the hill was eliminated by rerouting track, to add to insult it makes a 180 at the top of the hill to pull back around.. fortunately this is a 'branch' line which leads to nothing but storage at the top...

despite how steep this is.. one would be suprised at how much power 2 blue box athern engines have, not to mention 3 or 4. still there are limitations... problems usually being at 15 cars or more, but not because of the grade but because of the 180 degree curve at the top..

in some cases of properly distributed power, we have gotten 40 cars trains up and over in one piece!!