• MRC Power packs

  • Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.

Moderators: 3rdrail, Otto Vondrak, stilson4283

  by Otto Vondrak
 
You're certainly free to try to service your own power pack, but I'm saying this just because our lawyers get nervous when we discuss these things:
1) Only trained professionals should service any kind of appliance that interfaces with your 110v house current. You can risk the possibility of electrical shock or even death by electrocution by tampering with the components inside a commerical power pack.

2) There are no user-serviceable parts inside a commercial power pack. If your power pack is malfunctioning, send it back to the manufacturer for service.

3) RAILROAD.NET is not responsible for any damage caused to you or your property as a result of following the information posted here.
Sorry to be a buzzkill. Back to your regularly scheduled programming.

-otto-
  by Red Arrow Fan
 
NW608 wrote:... fixing your own loco and track wiring is no more difficult than the power pack. ...

ARE YOU KIDDING?!?!?

Wiring your track or tinkering with a loco do not have the inherent risk of getting zapped with high voltage.




OP: Did you ever stop to think that most of the 74+ people reading your post (but not responding with ideas) are not so much baffled by MRC's "impregnability", but rather, prefer to avoid electric shocks and burnt-down houses!
  by epspsy
 
NW608, sounds good
Thanks.
EPS
  by scottbk
 
A simple way to remove the mrc safety bolts is to use a set of side cutters and placing the cutters into the notches and turning. To work on these transformers use electrical safety procedures 110 volt can kill . Look at the boards for broken wires and cold or cracked solder joints. If access to the sound board is required desolder the switch for steam/diesel. It has 6 pins and requires solder wic or a good solder sucker. All the the components are discrete so the can be replaced. If you do not have a local electronics store digi key and allied electronics is a good source. You may have to also cross some of the components to other manufactures. Some of the components are as follows: LM 358N, LM 3909N, Lm386n-1,mm5437n, LM555cm, mm74c14, 2n4401, 2n4403. A schematic would be helpful if you can find one.
  by Ken W2KB
 
Like many other activities, troubleshooting a power supply requires sufficient knowledge, and careful, deliberate and strict following of safety rules for working on 120 volt line circuits. The proper tools and work bench are also essential. It is not rocket science, but prudence dictates that it not be attempted without having acquired sufficient knowledge. Just like on the prototype railroads, only those qualified should be on the job, and no short circuiting safety rules! (pun intended :wink: )
  by ApproachMedium
 
Heres the best tip of all!

Dont do it with it plugged in the wall! :-D
  by scottbk
 
Ignorance can be educated, stupid is forever. Just imagine the damage that can be done with a soldering iron in the wrong hands. The potential for getting burned or even burning down one's own house is enormous. The point is you can get carried away with what ifs. I think most people in this hobby can walk and chew bubble gum at the same time. Common sense when working on anything goes a long way.
  by epspsy
 
Seems that this topic has generated responses from every spectrum - some useful, some not
some besides the point, some pointless.

I took the easy way out and replaced the pooly repaired Command 20 with a new one. No, the house has not burned down; just some more cash burned up. Perhaps the real point is that
MRC's products as with many things made today, have a shorter life span than things manufactured 20+ years ago, maybe because they have more bells and whistles - things that can go wrong, quality control, etc.

Such is our time. So be it.
  by Ken W2KB
 
ApproachMedium wrote:Heres the best tip of all!

Dont do it with it plugged in the wall! :-D
While working on it, yes, but when taking voltage or current measurements, has to be plugged in. Again, knowledge, proper tools and procedures.
  by Chessie GM50
 
ApproachMedium wrote:Heres the best tip of all!

Dont do it with it plugged in the wall! :-D
Or just don't do it at all!!!
  by Petz
 
Using two 2500 tech two power since some years i had no troubles with them. I had added little computer processor vents for additional cooling when i got it. I own a set of special bits including three wing bits in four sizes from the german tool trader company "Westfalia" so the opening had not been any problem.
  by rwills7ron
 
i received a mrc 9000 from ebay. the two bottom screws came out and everything on inside was loose. i figured out how to remove those annoying security screws. i used a small punch and gently hit slot in screws to loosen. it didn't take much effort and was able to unscrew with fingers once i broke them loose. i was able to reinstall screws in bottom plate and decided to check out the inside. it has a fuse inside that could be replaced also the switches could be replaced with after market parts. the screws i took out are just sheet metal screws so i replaced them with screws that had a hex head. just in case i have to go back in it. mrc would of charged me a gold mine to do what i did. i hope this write up helps
  by Petz
 
Maybe MRC used that special screws to avoid that we try to do some work or repairs at ourselves... :wink: But i think the main reason is that they will secure that kids have no chance to get into the model railway power supplies cause other producers use similar ways too.