Railroad Forums 

  • How to model link and pin couplers?

  • Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.

Moderators: 3rdrail, stilson4283, Otto Vondrak

 #33537  by JBlaisdell
 
Does anyone know of a means for modelling a link and pin coupler that is functional? I'd love to do some 1840's modelling but can't figure out how to do the couplers...

 #33646  by Otto Vondrak
 
The closest to link-and-pin might be the old Mantua couplers of the 1940s. I dont think it would be physically possible to model a link-and-pin in HO scale, without making the parts grossly out of scale.

-otto-

 #33734  by Aa3rt
 
Otto, don't mean to dispute you, however, IIRC, there was a company (Alexander?) that made operating link & pin couplers in HO scale. I'll have to check an older (late 70s/early 80s) Walthers catalog to see what I can find.

Actually, a little "Google" searching revealed JaysTrains.com of Pompano Beach, FL who sells HO Link & Pin couplers, made by Keyport Car and Foundry. Follow the link and scroll down...

http://www.jaystrains.com/HO-HOn3/T-C/hot-c.htm

 #33746  by astrosa
 
I saw the Alexander link & pin couplers as recently as 1995 in a Walthers catalog. I don't remembering seeing them among the Alexander products in the 2001 catalog, which was the last one I bought. However, Alexander is no longer listed among the manufacturers at the Walthers website and in their online catalog.

 #33792  by Marty Feldner
 
I've had a couple pair of the E. P. Alexander link & pin couplers in my parts box for years.

Here's a couple of shots of one mounted under an unfinished O&W boxcar:

Image

Image

It is fully functional, but a bit oversize. However, compared to the Kadee #5's in the background, it isn't any more out of scale than they are.

The Keyport couplers look identical to the Alexanders except for the body being cast in brass instead of Zamak. The straight shank model fits in any standard coupler box, and is sprung (both in the buff direction, and for centering).

 #33932  by astrosa
 
Not to stray too far off topic here, but:
E. P. Alexander
I never realized that was the full name of the company...Edwin P. Alexander, I take it? I've seen a couple of his books from the 1940s or so at the local library - fascinating how he scratchbuilt literally everything.

No surprise, then, that he went into business for the hobby (assuming I've got the name right).

The couplers look nicer than I expected, especially the link. Remembering the illustration from the Walthers catalog, these couplers had the same shank design as the Kadee #4, with the coil spring instead of the formed leaf spring of the #5. Is that the setup you were referring to?

By the way, excellent end detail on the O&W boxcar.

 #33967  by Aa3rt
 
Yes, they do. As you might expect they are somewhat delicate and require tweezers for lifting the pins as 1:1 fingers aren't exactly ideal for this.

I had an acquaintence years ago (since deceased) who used the Alexander couplers extensively on an HO scale logging railroad.

 #34110  by JBlaisdell
 
Wow. Thanks for the replys, all.

I'll have to give those Keyport couplers some thought. I would only need about 20 sets. One good thing about 1830-1840 RRs, there was not a lot of rolling stock. 2 locos, 2 passenger cars, and a dozen freight cars would go a long way.

I think I'd use a screw pick to handle the pins. I'd HATE to have one go flying across the room!