by AntonioFP45
Hello Everyone,
I wanted to share this with passenger car modelers . This is a Walthers HO Budd Baggage-Dorm car that I purchased new a few years ago.
I disassembled the car and stripped the shell with 91% alcohol. Like Rivarossi, Bachmann, and AHM ss passenger car shells, the stock silver paint comes off easily.
I realize that although Walthers had decorated this series in SCL, the model is based on a New York Central prototype. But as a freelancer, I proceeded and finish it into the SCL scheme. The prototype #105 was a unit that was owned by the Atlantic Coast Line and survived through to Amtrak.
I went with a gloss dark-gray tone that was the equivalent of NYC Dk. Gray for the basecolor. After curing, Alclad 107 was airbrushed over it.
For weathering, I made washes with these 3 colors from Pollyscale:
To me, the aged-concrete resembles light colored earth in Florida when it's saturated with pollen during the spring and fall seasons. (with plenty of itching and sneezing accompanying the residents!)
I applied the washes on the underframe, trucks, and wheel faces using a #2 Taklon paint brush.
Painted the interior using low key colors loosely based on photos from a book.
The window glazing was airbrushed tinted with Alclad Armoured Glass. Window shades are made from strips of Plastruct #90179 ( .010" x .250) and were glued in with Microscale's "Micro Kristal Klear". Good adhesive that's very forgiving if you make a mistake.
Reassembly: I'll be pleasant and say that it was "challenging" (yes, a bit of a pain). I realize that once I metalize several more Walthers units, reassembly should be much easier. Was quite annoying after putting the car together only to discover that a window row had popped out! Getting that roof off properly, even when using the twist method, requires patience and care. I've been spoiled by Rivarossi cars as they're extremely easy to take apart and slap back together.
Handrails. I should have drilled the holes BEFORE Alcladding the shell. I had forgotten to do so after I stripped the shell, and remembered the handrails just before applying the decals. To secure the rails, I applied tiny dabs of Kristal Klear in the holes with a toothpick.
Here is the car outdoors:
Indoor photos, florescent and incandescent lighting:
Weathering and Details: I've based my appearances for the SCL cars I'm doing on photos and this video (time index 2:25): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iia8Qf09jA0
Well maintained but a bit grimy on the ends and bottom of the fluting. I will weather the ends and the fluting bottoms once I Alclad my entire fleet, which hopefully won't take long. I ordered the Cal Scale passenger car air/steam hose details from Bowser, but received the freight versions. I'm mailing them back to Bowser to swap them out for the passenger versions. Bowser's customer service is good.
I had suggested to modelers that own the original Walthers Pine/Regal units and the BLI CZ cars that to give them an added added depth of realism, they could weather the underframe as I did to this unit. I've seen a number of vids and photos of the Super Chief prototypes and inspite of Santa Fe's efforts with the silver paint and car washes to keep them in a pristine appearance.....they did get dirty, especially on the ends.
On this unit and the others, after weathering the bottom sections of the fluting, I'll seal them with a thin coat of Alclad gloss or semi-gloss clear.
I wanted to share this with passenger car modelers . This is a Walthers HO Budd Baggage-Dorm car that I purchased new a few years ago.
I disassembled the car and stripped the shell with 91% alcohol. Like Rivarossi, Bachmann, and AHM ss passenger car shells, the stock silver paint comes off easily.
I realize that although Walthers had decorated this series in SCL, the model is based on a New York Central prototype. But as a freelancer, I proceeded and finish it into the SCL scheme. The prototype #105 was a unit that was owned by the Atlantic Coast Line and survived through to Amtrak.
I went with a gloss dark-gray tone that was the equivalent of NYC Dk. Gray for the basecolor. After curing, Alclad 107 was airbrushed over it.
For weathering, I made washes with these 3 colors from Pollyscale:
To me, the aged-concrete resembles light colored earth in Florida when it's saturated with pollen during the spring and fall seasons. (with plenty of itching and sneezing accompanying the residents!)
I applied the washes on the underframe, trucks, and wheel faces using a #2 Taklon paint brush.
Painted the interior using low key colors loosely based on photos from a book.
The window glazing was airbrushed tinted with Alclad Armoured Glass. Window shades are made from strips of Plastruct #90179 ( .010" x .250) and were glued in with Microscale's "Micro Kristal Klear". Good adhesive that's very forgiving if you make a mistake.
Reassembly: I'll be pleasant and say that it was "challenging" (yes, a bit of a pain). I realize that once I metalize several more Walthers units, reassembly should be much easier. Was quite annoying after putting the car together only to discover that a window row had popped out! Getting that roof off properly, even when using the twist method, requires patience and care. I've been spoiled by Rivarossi cars as they're extremely easy to take apart and slap back together.
Handrails. I should have drilled the holes BEFORE Alcladding the shell. I had forgotten to do so after I stripped the shell, and remembered the handrails just before applying the decals. To secure the rails, I applied tiny dabs of Kristal Klear in the holes with a toothpick.
Here is the car outdoors:
Indoor photos, florescent and incandescent lighting:
Weathering and Details: I've based my appearances for the SCL cars I'm doing on photos and this video (time index 2:25): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iia8Qf09jA0
Well maintained but a bit grimy on the ends and bottom of the fluting. I will weather the ends and the fluting bottoms once I Alclad my entire fleet, which hopefully won't take long. I ordered the Cal Scale passenger car air/steam hose details from Bowser, but received the freight versions. I'm mailing them back to Bowser to swap them out for the passenger versions. Bowser's customer service is good.
I had suggested to modelers that own the original Walthers Pine/Regal units and the BLI CZ cars that to give them an added added depth of realism, they could weather the underframe as I did to this unit. I've seen a number of vids and photos of the Super Chief prototypes and inspite of Santa Fe's efforts with the silver paint and car washes to keep them in a pristine appearance.....they did get dirty, especially on the ends.
On this unit and the others, after weathering the bottom sections of the fluting, I'll seal them with a thin coat of Alclad gloss or semi-gloss clear.
