I've ridden the Maple Leaf 1 and 1/2 times.
The 1 was a round-trip from NYP to Toronto and back again in February of 2004. The consist was all Amfleet I with the cafe/business class car head out, followed by 4 coaches.
The trip was on time until departing Niagara Falls, Ontario, when we got delayed an hour by CN signal problems. Once moving again, we stayed an hour down all the way into Aldershot, where I bailed early and caught a GO bus to Hamilton.
The return trip was on time until leaving Niagara Falls, NY when we got talked by a stop signal and proceeded at restricted speed (it proved to be a banner test, as we suddenly stopped, and some moments later, I saw a CSX official removing the banner and toss it in the back of his truck). We then ran about 45 minutes down for the remainder of the trip to NYP.
The 1/2 was a one-way trip from Toronto to NYP (completing a circle involving Air Canada and a ride on the last Budd set on VIA's Ocean). The consist was an Amfleet I cafe/business class car, three Amfleet II coaches, and an Amfleet I coach on the rear. All of us boarding in Toronto heading for US points were herded into the Amfleet I coach, while intra-Canada riders got the Amfleet II coach ahead. The next coach held a tour group of about 45 people (who detrained at Niagara Falls) and the coach behind the cafe was used for boarding passengers at the intermediate Canadian stations. Not happy with being crammed into the Amfleet I (and needing to charge my cell phone) I quietly asked the VIA attendant if I could move up to the next coach after the train departed Aldershot, and she happily obliged. So I got to sit comfortably all the way to NYP after all.
The train ran on time until between Rochester and Syracuse when we stopped dead for about 10 minutes. The crew announced that a CSX freight had gone into emergency ahead and we would reverse to the nearest interlocking, cross over, then proceed east again around the freight. That delay, as well as an hour's delay at Syracuse due to single-tracking and congestion ahead put the train about an hour and a half down by the time we arrived in Albany. The locomotive change was delayed because the P32 was not quite in position and a northbound from NYP was arriving. To make a long story short, arrival in NYP was just before 11pm, barely in time to make the last Regional out for Philly.
Regarding the food, on the westbound trips, the cafe closed up leaving Exchange Street Buffalo and the attendant packed up all the food and reversed the menu cards. Whether or not the food was just locked away or actually offloaded in Niagara Falls, ON with the crew change, I don't know; but the VIA food was a tad better than an Amburger, I had to admit!
Overall, CN does an excellent job keeping the Maple Leaf on time on their side. On our side...well, you have to gamble on CSX.
"CSX Detector. Milepost Six Point Four. No Defects. Repeat: No Defects. Total Axles Seven Four Seven. Detector Out"