Custom photo etching paint stencils

Hey, I am not a fan of decals, and I thought of an idea. I am going to be painting many Guilford locomotives soon and decals just do not work out for me. I want to have some sort of stencils for the big Guilford G and maybe some other parts like the Guilford Rail System or Maine central that goes after the G. Does anyone know of any custom photo etched stencil service or some way I could do this? Btw do not talk me back into decals lol... Thanks
Tim

Nope, no stencils, and you probably won't find any that work. you'll still get over spray. good luck with thin stripes

You just need to practice more, or follow the decal directions more closely.

Interesting idea. I guess thats how "factory" paint is done.
have you developped your painting technique with ordinary cardstock stencils from the stationary store?
Can you shoot a good looking letter through a stencil?
pics of practice pieces?
I might have to try it.

Eliphaz wrote:Interesting idea. I guess thats how "factory" paint is done.

Actually, as i understood it, the markings on a locomotive are usually pad printed. for example, a Conrail GP40-2 will have blue paint sprayed on, but then a automated machine actually prints the logos and markings on, like a stamp. I could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure thats how its done in many places.

In fact, you can see it on some body shells. Look on the inner surfaces, and sometimes you may see a "Conrail" printed on the inside (usually incompletely). I'm pretty sure this is because the printing surfaces comes in contact at some point with the "holding" surface inside the body shell.

have you developped your painting technique with ordinary cardstock stencils from the stationary store?
Can you shoot a good looking letter through a stencil?
pics of practice pieces?
I might have to try it.

You got to read the post man. Hes trying to use stencils as an alternative, because he can't use decals.

While I'm general agreement that OP should get better at decaling,
there's nothing like trying something to prove it can, or can't be done.

I understand some issues that will come with stencils. I do everything on the instructions. I hate using dullcot to seal them. Dullcot is useless and can mess with my weathering. If someone really thinks decals are so great tell me how you sell them to look like they are painted on not a decal....Some instructions or techniques...

If I can do it, you can do it.
this is an N scale model, which IMHO is about twice as challenging as HO,

second photo zoomed in enormous to get a look at how the decal conforms to the surface.


Microscale decals, set in with Micro-sol solvent solution and a tiny paint brush, several applications over several hours.
float the decal into place, wick away all water with edge of paper towel, paint on micro-sol, tamp down gently from the center outwards. re-wet very carefully a few minutes later. maybe a third time.

finally shot with two coats of Dullcoat.
Dullcoat is an acetone based product and will instantly disolve certain things. there are other matt finish products like Krylon. worth experimenting.

Im not totally against the idea of stencils, I intend to do some experiments. I only suggest you do the same before investing in custom brass etchings.

guilford88panam wrote:I understand some issues that will come with stencils. I do everything on the instructions. I hate using dullcot to seal them. Dullcot is useless and can mess with my weathering. If someone really thinks decals are so great tell me how you sell them to look like they are painted on not a decal....Some instructions or techniques...

First up, you have to put decals on a GLOSS surface. In the microscopic level, a "dullcote" finish is rough and edgy, which creates the dull appearance since its not reflecting the light so much. Gloss clear coat on the other hand is smooth (the only smoother finish is gloss black). Since decals getter a better grip on the smoother coat than the dull coat, so you should always first spray on a gloss finish if your paint isn't glossy already.

This will help eliminated that "silvering" where the clear parts of a decal are obvious. decals also stick better to a gloss cote, so less air bubbles, and they won't peal so easy.

Next, once the decal is in position, hit it with micro-sol (weak) or Solvaset (strong) decal solution. this will almost literally liquefy the decals (never touch the decal until its dry after applying these products). This will cause the decal to "melt" over the different details, so you don't get "tents". At this point, a few final pockets of air may become visible. wait until the decal is dry, then pop the bubble with a sharp hobby knife or needle. then re-apply micro-sol or solvaset, and the bubble will flatten.

Once its all done, you spray ANOTHER layer of gloss coat over everything. this will build up around the decal and help reduce the seam. It will also make the surface of the model blend in (if you held it in the light, you would not see the decal reflecting off of it, just the gloss cote.

Now is when you dullcoat (if you need to, many passenger cars and locomotives are shiny these days). You can put your weathering on last, and it should stick out. Keep in mind though, that no matter how you do it, the weathering will fade if you don't seal it. many modelers put on a little more then needed, knowing the clear coats will reduce it down.


Another problem might be the decal brand you have. Champ decal film is thick, so it shows up a little on the edges. Microscale on the other hand, is much thinner and disappears with some clear coats.

that said, i've pretty much learned those techniques through expirience and they haven't failed me yet. You just gotta practice.

The best thing about the Accupaint line was the wonderful smooth gloss finish, decals take to it perfectly.
Every other "railroad" hobby paint line Ive used needs the above mentioned gloss coat applied before decalling.

guilford88panam wrote:Hey, I am not a fan of decals...

If you take your time, you can get great results with decals. You're going to have more difficulty with stencils and overspray than you will with water-slide decals.

-otto-