What fixative to use over dry transfers on decal paper?
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
OK, so I needed some custom white lettering - the easiest way to do this in my mind was with Woodland Scenics dry transfers.
Now, because the models I planned to apply them to have irregular shapes and projctions which would make positioning and rubbing the transfers very difficult, I then applied the transfers to decal paper (so they could be correctly aligned and spaced). Now, at this point I realized I needed some sort of 'fixative' (overcoating) over the transfers/decals to prevent them from getting messed up during the wet/apply/microsol/microset process, but I wasn't sure what?
So, anyone who has done this, do you use, say, Testors Glosscoat over the decal/transfers, or something else?
Any clear varnish ought to work. A flat varnish would leave you with a flat surface, closer to where you probably want to get. I use Floquil Flat Finish out of my airbrush, but a spray can of Testors Dullcote ought to work just as well I would let anything dry for 24-72 hours.
jwb1323:
Do you mean put a dullcoat on the decal before I affix it to the model? OK, but that seems odd on the surface to me?
I understand after the decal is applied to the model, and affixed with microsol/set (or equivalent) and dries, then you cover the model in dullcoat (or other coating), but I'm talking about the decal/transfer combo before putting it in the water to remove the backing paper and applying it...
If you apply a bunch of dry transfers to a sheet of clear decal paper, you shouldn't need anything to fix them in place. Maybe a light a dusting of dullcote... but that's it. Of course, once applied to the model, a coat of dullcote would be all you need.
The problem is that the adhesive that holds the dry transfer to the decal is iffy. Remember that after you put the decal w/transfer in the water, you are going to be running liquid over it (both water and solvent), poking and prodding, adjusting position, popping bubbles, etc. All this runs the risk of making the transfer come loose if it's not sealed. This is why I recommend a coat of flat varnish over the transfers when you put them on the decal paper, before you put them in the water or on the model.
This is standard practice for decals made on printers, too.
jwb1323 wrote:The problem is that the adhesive that holds the dry transfer to the decal is iffy. Remember that after you put the decal w/transfer in the water, you are going to be running liquid over it (both water and solvent), poking and prodding, adjusting position, popping bubbles, etc. All this runs the risk of making the transfer come loose if it's not sealed.
This is precisely what I was concerned about, and I highly agree with you about needing a coating over the dry transfer/decal combo before wetting/cutting/positioning/etc.
I just wanted to confirm that for this fixative you recommend a flat solution (for which I would use dullcoat) as opposed to glosscoat (since the decals are glossly) or clear coat (which is a pain to find sometimes), and that when you have used flat coat on your decals it looked good. Yes, I know when the decaling is completed, normally the model is sprayed with a flat finish, but for some reason my mind refuses to accept this for the initial decal preperation (probably because all commercial decals I've worked with have a glossy finish).
OK, to confirm, I always use Floquil Flat Finish (but Testors Dullcote should work as well) over any potential problem decal before applying it to the model. This includes dry transfers applied to decal film, but can also be done for decals off a computer printer, or decals that are likely to crack during application.
One of the really nice things about Herald King decals by the way -- which were very, very nice decals -- is that they did have a flat film. I have a number of cars from the 1970s and 80s that I did with Herald King decals, and the longer I have them, the more I like the paint jobs, though they were Athearn, AHM, etc., cars that are nothing special now otherwise.
jwb1323 wrote:OK, to confirm, I always use Floquil Flat Finish (but Testors Dullcote should work as well) over any potential problem decal before applying it to the model. This includes dry transfers applied to decal film, but can also be done for decals off a computer printer, or decals that are likely to crack during application.
Thank you, that is exactly what I wanted to read (and I highly agree, any decals made using 'non-standard' means, or old, iffy decals, need a coating).
