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  • Fast Tracks jigs...

  • Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.

Moderators: 3rdrail, stilson4283, Otto Vondrak

 #16618  by Komachi
 
(Note: the following was typed in a Minnesota-Norwegain accent)

'ey dere,

Was just out lookin' on the Internet, dere, and I came across the page for the Fast Tracks system of handlaying track. Dey have tools and jigs for building turnouts and crossings, etc. from scratch. However, dey seem to utilize copper-clad, fiberglass PC board ties in the construction of da turnouts instead of balsa instead of the usual balsa wood.

This is the link to da site, dere den...

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/

I'm wondering if a guy could just build da track wit'out da PC board bits, or not. Maybe a guy could just temporarily use da PC bits, den remove 'em when he's done.

Anyone else out dere used PC board ties before, den? I know dere was a project layout in MR back in '89, dat was for a traction layout and dey used PC Board for ties in da street trackage (o' course, da guy was using special streetcar track made by Richard Orr) which was den encased in Hydracal plaster. As I get closer to laying track on my layout, I'm looking at various ideas for building it... scratchbuilding (as Tony Koester would tell ya ta do it) or by using commercial kits (like BK Enterprises or Central Valley).

It looks like it would be a good ting, dere, but I don't know. Any a you guys got any opinions on dis, den?

 #17024  by NYC-BKO
 
Very interesting site, if I were to handlay track I think they would come in handy. Nice templates to print out.

The PC board ties are only to hold things together till you spike it down to wood ties, then you can leave them or unsolder and remove. They show them staying with slots cut for insulating between rails, that would be your choice.

 #41476  by XBNSFer
 
Cool site thanks for the link!
 #41523  by Komachi
 
Otto,

Yeah, sorry about that. An attempt at humor polking fun at my Minnesota roots, especially the Norwegian-Swedish-German accent that the rest of the country seems to think we all speak with (ever see "Fargo?").

If you want I can go back and re-write it... in plain English.

 #41743  by Throttle_JCKY
 
Otto Vondrak wrote:Komachi- dis? den? dere? Makes your posts kinda hard to read.

-otto-
Heck, it brought me north... The likes of listening to the movie Fargo, or an aunt that was from up that way.
While tough to read for some, the sad thing for me was, I read it perfectly....LMAO

 #54994  by gwensdad
 
Aside from the language thing, I just had the opportunity to build a turnout using one of these jigs. Here are a couple of impressions I came away with. The BEST thing about the jigs is, they are machined for a specific rail size (code 55, 70, 83, 100 for HO, also available in several N sizes), so they hold the rail in position nicely while you're lining everything up. The WORST thing about the jigs is, they are machined for a specific rail size, and turnout angle, so if you're building number 4 turnouts in code 70 for the branch, and number 6 turnouts in code 83 or 100 for the main, you need different jigs for each, at about $90 per. You also need the point/frog block (about $40), which allows you to quickly and easily file the proper angle on the, you guessed it, points and frogs. These blocks work for at least three rail sizes, 70, 83, and 100. On each jig you get a left and right turnout, and you can order jigs in whatever rail size/turnout angle you want. I'm not aware that you can combine sizes/angles on a jig, but why would you want to? Also not aware of the availability of curved jigs. The jig has markings for the lengths of the point and frog rails, the guard rails, including where to notch the rail web to get a sharp bend, and the guard rails. My first time through, I built a perfectly-operating turnout in code 70, if you don't count the fact that I soldered the throw bar to the stock rails (it was late, okay?). My opinion is, you can do the same thing without the jig, although not as quickly or as easily, by using the NMRA diagrams. If you have A LOT of turnouts to build, you might want to look at these.

Oh yeah, and don't forget to notch the PC board on the bottom, too, if you intend to spike through one, or you'll have a dead short. Using PC board allows you to assemble the turnout at the bench, then move it to the layout while maintaining proper gauge. They could also be useful in powering the frog. Once painted, ballasted, and weathered, these are hard to tell from wood ties.

 #55094  by steemtrayn
 
Can you show us pics of the completed turnout?

 #56305  by gwensdad
 
Sorry, not anytime soon. No digital camera, no scanner. All my extra $ goes to trains instead of electronics. I'll work on it , and if I can find someone to take some pix, I'll post them.
 #56348  by Komachi
 
Hey guys,

Here are some examples of finished turnouts off the company website.

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/fast-track ... des.html?1


Here are some examples of the trackwork on the Port Kelsey railroad (the layout of the guy who makes the jigs).

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/pk-trackwork.html