Railroad Forums 

  • Modeling brake hoses or working MU connections for locos?

  • Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.

Moderators: 3rdrail, stilson4283, Otto Vondrak

 #16577  by SD45Jim
 
I usually run my locomotives in pairs. I have a pair of Athearn SD-45s, a pair of Athearn F-45s, and a two Katos (SD-45 and SD-40). Is there a way to model brake hoses between locomotive pairs? And is there a way to model MU hoses between the locomotives?

Thanks!

Jim Sherwin

 #16720  by Otto Vondrak
 
There was an article in Model Railroader about five years ago, where a guy did an article on MU hoses that actually carried current- I think they drove the lighting circuit or something.

http://www.index.mrmag.com/tm.exe?opt=I ... t=3&sort=A

It was more novelty than anything else. Ever try to hook up a pair of HO scale MU hoses with 1:1 scale hands and tools?

-otto-

 #16912  by caboose
 
In Great Model Railroads 2001,there was a layout where the brake hoses actually coupled together. I believe he used very small magnets. :P

 #17023  by NYC-BKO
 
The only way I know how to do it is to use very thin wire insulation, phone wire, etc. Pull the wire out and paint it black, with wire pins on each loco to attach it to but make them removeable. The problem is the sharp radius we use, they have to be long enough to stretch or flexible enough to bunch up when going through a curve or turnout. Can cause operating problems if not just right. Regular detail parts aren't long enough for this unless you have real close couplings on the locos.