Help marking out track center lines on the layout

I'm new to railroad modelling and need some help with my first layout. It's pretty simple. A large oval with a few sidings and a passing track. My biggest challenge currently is accurately laying out my track centerline. I thought I did a good job but I now need to scrap my first attempt and start over because the track is not conforming to the cork I laid.

Specifically, I am having a tough time laying out the curves. I tried marking the center of the track by pinning it and using a marker. The problem I suspect is that the deviation from the real center is too great using an inaccurate method like this.

Do any of you have some tested methods to help me out? Thanks in advance.

Here's an easy solution: use flex track.

Flex track isn't that hard to learn to use and it is very forgiving. The only problem is making the final part of the oval line up with the correct radius. Flex track is cheaper than sectional track. Just invest in a pair of Xuron rail cutters and a decent soldering iron, if you choose to solder. (On a 4 by 8 soldering flex track may not be necessary.)

One thing to remember here, while curves should be nice and smooth, if you want to model the real thing, the rails around my area are neither smooth or straight.

A member of a club I used to belong to questioned our layout's track laying and how crooked and "bumpy" it was, saying that he could put track down as straight as an arrow flew. We didn't care though, because it added realism to the layout, proven later at an open house we had when people viewing the layout remarked how the cars rocked back and forth, like they did by their house.

Thanks for the tips. I like the idea of some imperfection to be closer to the real thing. Where I loused up is the cork deviates enough that it causes some kinks in the track.

I assume you need a good starting line that will determine the rest of the layout. How in the heck do you lay out a good 9.75" radius N curve?

Use a 9.75" ruler.

Seriously, use a yardstick, and use it like a beam compass.

-otto-

If you are using sectional track, you could always snap a couple pieces together and put it on the layout and use pen/pencil/marker and trace a rough line. That should get you close enough so that your roadbed will not cause a problem.

Or do the yardstick thing Otto suggested

Otto, has the correct method. I use a yard stick,at the desired radius,drill
a 1/4" hole. Stick a pencil in the drilled hole. Use a brad at the end of the stick,and nail the brad at your track center. Turn a radius by holding the pencil.

I use a pencil and string to make a compass that will trace an infinite variety of curves.

You can do the yardstick method or string method too.

Solder your track in atleast 2 sections, laying the flex rail to the outside of the curve. Keep as many ties as possible at the joint, even the best soldered track can develop a kink at this junction.

Take your time and work slowly, don't rush it. Rushing it will only make it worse.

And lastly, HAVE FUN!

What about easements? In the real world, the first part of the curve is a longer radius than the actual curve.

So let's say you wish to lay out an 18 inch radius curve using flextrack. Get two sections of sectional track, one an 18 inch, the other a 22 or 24 inch radius. Position the sectional track so the longer radius is first, followed by the shorter. Scribe each side of the track, then remove and replace with the flex track.

This should give you a smoother entry into the curve, and looks a bit more realistic.

For laying flex, I have a set of metal bars that fit into the gauge of the track. Once you have the centre line, put the bar in the track and spike it down. There are curved bars for just about any curve radius. I first used these bars on my friend's layout. I helped my engineer build his layout, when I was a fireman.
For spirals (easemnets) I started out with larger radius bars and worked down (using several sizes) to the size of desired radius. When I was done, I think it looked creditable.

[quote]Use a 9.75" ruler.

Seriously, use a yardstick, and use it like a beam compass.

-otto-[/quote]


Or, as I have, becuase of my "round the walls" and center penisula,

Use a camera tripod. I still drill a hole in the 1 inch mark and then at the intervals I need. Jusdt remember to add one inch of you use the 1 inch mark. so you get 33" radius for example, instead of 32" by accident

Brian

scopelliti wrote:What about easements? In the real world, the first part of the curve is a longer radius than the actual curve.

I would NEVER suggest easements for a newbie. Learning the correct way to lay track in a radius is the best bet for the time being. Then you can learn about laying easements.
Doing easements the correct way is tough enough, but for a beginner, NA.