Over the past couple of months I have had a number of adventures related to my interest in rail from both a historical and public policy standpoint. Among several delayed reports that I have wanted to write when I was rested and could "do it justice" is this one of my visit to the ex-SR Spencer Shops in Spencer, NC while in the area visiting family. After some polite inquiries I was able to take a private tour of ex-NH 553, Pullman Sleeper, 6 DBR - Buffet - Lounge,
Pine Tree State (PPCX 800236).
We visited Spencer, home to the
North Carolina Transportation Museum the day after Thanksgiving. They were running their annual "Santa Trains" and had a very nice arrangement were the ticket included a train ride and a visit by Santa and a small gift and snack for for each child riding the train. The train ride is an interesting movement that makes you realize at once how big the complex really is. Moving slowly the train travels from one end of the shop yard, reverses and then travels back to the other end. The total trip time is an astounding 40 minutes, which really makes you realize just how big the shops really were, even when you factor in train speeds that were probably no more than 15 MPH.
After making a series of discrete and polite inquiries and then waiting patiently the stars eventually aligned, probably helped by the fact that I mentioned that we had come down from Maine (of course reassuring the staff we hadn't made the trip just for the sake of seeing the sleeper car!). The senior volunteers on hand understood the historical angle for us and were extremely helpful. While waiting for the "time to be right" we toured the other displayed at the museum which included a lovingly maintained fleet of antique cars and of course the
tour de force through the roundhouse at the Spencer shops. Notable sights were one of only six known existing (and ultra rare) Ford Model R autos (valued at something close to or above $250,000), and of course Atlantic Coast Line #501 (sole surviving EMC E3). Additional "ticket punches" were SOU 6133 (FP7A) and several coach cars from the N&Ws famed
Powhatan Arrow which although not in perfect shape were nonetheless very interesting to ride. Naturally my thoughts turned to the very different fate that had become for some time of the CSRRs
Hattie Evans which had similar heritage but had not been as lucky over the years to be taken care of as well as the coaches had been.
Of particular interest were SOU 1211 built as a "Partition Coach" in 1922, which of course was a nice way of saying that the car was segregated. While the coach seats were no longer present inside the car, crucially, the partition was completely intact. Hopefully if the car is ever fully restored people will be able to walk through the car and see it for themselves. Having spent a fair amount of time discussing rail passenger capacity efficiencies I couldn't help but be struck by the crushing administrative and operational burdens that segregation must have placed on the larger railroads operating over long distances to and from the South. Not only did they have to ensure that they had enough rolling stock to serve all passenger classes but even assuming they didn't take very good care of their 'Colored' passengers they still had to ensure some kind of minimal capacity to serve those passengers as well. The impossibility of suitably (even by the poor standards of that era) accommodating large or variable numbers of these passengers would have made it difficult for them indeed and frankly on some level would have forced many railroads not to serve them at all or only serve them on a minimal basis. Furthermore, assuming that Pullman accommodations couldn't be purchased by those considered 'Colored' the railroads would have also had to miss out on any opportunities to gain market share or otherwise "upsell" those passengers to better more profitable accommodations. I can easily imagine more than one accountant looking at these costs and calling it madness, a view which may have been quietly shared by more than just a few in the Executive office suites as well.
I would make further note here that the Museum deserves special credit for not only taking the time to preserve this car as a special example of the unique history of Southern railroads but they also took great care and time to acknowledge and emphasize the facts of discrimination in employment practices by the Southern Railway at the Spencer Shops which prohibited 'Colored' employees from advancing into any skilled trades and almost always kept them in menial positions as laborers and cleaners. NCTM's approach to the negative legacies of discrimination, segregation and other practices in place at that time was forthright, honest and clear and as with the rest of the museum I thought it was very well done.
I was even more impressed by the restored Army Hospital Car (U.S. Army #89480). The museum vignette indicated that the addition of tie down points to the car made it possible that this car was one of the few to have actually been transported to Korea and used in Hospital train service there. The nearly complete and intact nature of the car, along with its very telling inclusion of six berths separated for "special" patients (for those receiving psychiatric care) was something that to me was a very real testament to the common threads of sacrifice across all conflicts.
I thought the use of a separate set of berths for psychiatric patients was a remarkably merciful step to take as it would have spared them the further trauma of being bunked above or below those who might have experienced physical injuries which at that stage could have been in very rough shape. Also interesting to note that the car had full kitchen facilities and was essentially a small self-contained hospital. Obviously this would be expected but the extent to which these capabilities could be miniaturized and setup for service over the rails was quite remarkable. I never would have guessed that these facilities would be as well provided for as they were, but then again most people never realize the full extent of military capabilities in any era anyways.
And so the moment had arrived, the correct key was obtained and we walked out to
Pine Tree State sitting alone on a siding. Not having seen any interior photos on the internet I wasn't really sure what to expect and whether or not the trip to the museum (for which
Pine Tree State was definitely a motivating factor) was going to be "worth it" or not.
And so like literally thousands of Mainers before us we alighted onto
Pine Tree State and found ourselves....in semi-darkness. And this was where things actually became more and not less interesting. The shades in the hallway going down the side of the car were pulled down and I could see what looked like some kind of blue hues coming from the hall, I figured those must have been some kind of 'service lights'. There were also one or two lights on right by the vestibule. I realized I was standing by the electrical cabinet and after asking permission opened it up to find.... completely intact electrical circuit breakers that I had very few doubts were original factory installation. I looked at the wiring chart and flipped everything which literally brought the car to life (it was plugged in to "shore power").
We then proceeded to the first open double bedroom to find .... darkness. Again. This time it was a little easier as I located some vintage toggle switches (right were they should be!) and flipped on the lights in the room to reveal .... a perfectly intact double bedroom with all amenities working, all light fixtures working and even the little fans close to the ceiling in place (maybe not working...couldn't tell for sure).
The carpet looked as if it had been replaced (which it probably had been). The partitions for use to convert the bedrooms to singles were in place as well and as far as I knew it seemed as if this was probably the case in the other bedrooms. We proceeded down the hallway, past the kitchen used for the buffet service (which apparently was either in your room or in the lounge and yes, then we came to the lounge. Probably original chairs in place and the beautiful effects of art-deco designed indirect lighting.
For all intents and purposes this car is completely and totally intact. That it is not just the last remaining sleeper car to service Maine but of course the last remaining piece of NH rolling stock still interchangeable on national railroads makes
Pine Tree State a very special piece of history indeed.
This post wouldn't be complete without acknowledging the efforts of the Massachusetts Bay Rail Road Enthusiasts whose donations in the early aughts (2004/2005?) helped pay for restoration of the car to its present state. My profound thanks to the volunteers at the North Carolina Transportation Museum who took time out of their very long day to give me and my family this special tour.