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  • 'Lawrence of Arabia' train faces quiet demise

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Discussion about railroad topics everywhere outside of Canada and the United States.

Moderators: Komachi, David Benton

 #151914  by Aa3rt
 
From a Yahoo News story, supplied by Reuters, authored by Ibon Villelabeitia, Tuesday, July 26, 2005. Forwarded to me by a former co-worker:

'Lawrence of Arabia' train faces quiet demise

Early last century, the biggest threat to the Hejaz Railway was Britain's T.E. Lawrence and his camel-mounted Arab rebels, who sabotaged the desert track to attack trains packed with Turkish soldiers.

Today, a lack of passengers and improved highways may kill off the Hejaz once and for all, a quiet demise for a train that entered popular imagination thanks to Lawerence's war exploits, later turned into the classic film "Lawerence of Arabia."

On one recent morning, only four passengers climbed aboard for the Amman-Damascus trip through Jordan's ochre deserts and Syria's fertile plains, the railway's only surviving service.

The 175 km (109 miles) journey takes 2-1/2 half hours by car, but on the Hejaz it can last anywhere from seven to 10, depending on seemingly endless delays at local stations and emergency stops to remove goats and vagrants from the tracks.

Built by the Ottoman Sultan during the golden era of railways in the 1900s, the Hejaz ran for 1,300 km (812 miles) from Damascus to Medina, ferrying pilgrims to Islam's holy sites and troops to rebellious Arab provinces under Ottoman rule.

The fabled railway has few thrills these days. Fine grit blows steadily in through cracked carriage windows, the upholstery is shredded and swarms of flies attack lunches. The toilet is a hole in a narrow carriage.

But the ride also offers colorful scenes of desert life as the train clatters along at 40 km (25 miles) an hour.

Bedouins herd goats and sheep grazing in arid hills. Children run out of tents pitched along tracks and wave at passengers.

In Syria's Hauran region, the desert gives way to gold-colored fields of wheat. Melon plantations thrive next to villages, where minarets and bell towers of Orthodox churches rise over rooftops.

Pilgrims Crowded Train

During its heyday, the Hejaz ferried thousands of pilgrims every year. Today, it draws mostly locals and some foreign train buffs and curiosity seekers.

Along the route, lie relics of the Hejaz. Rusty German and Belgian-made steam locomotives sit abandoned in yards. Water towers stand in Ottoman-style stations, where station-masters ring bells to announce the train's departure.

"People used to travel on the train, but after cars and highways came passengers disappeared," said Abu Zabdi, a 79-year-old mechanic who has worked on the Hejaz for 40 years.

At every stop, Abu Zabdi, who said he knows every coach like each of his eight children, jumps off the train to inspect wheels, axles and hooks.

"Some of these carriages are 100 years old but they run like the first day," he said proudly.

In Zarqa, a gritty industrial city north of Amman, the train made an emergency stop for a vagrant sleeping on the tracks. The man, apparently drunk, was hand cuffed and brought on board by police officers.

Near the Syrian border, a group of schoolchildren accompanied by women in black veils crowded one coach. The hot air filled with the smell of round bread from their lunch boxes.

Two conductors offered small, clinking porcelan cups filled with bitter dark coffee.

"I'm going to Damascus to see family. Cars are faster but here I enjoy the views," said a middle-aged passenger standing on the outer rail as the diesel engine lumbered into the city of Deraa, in Syria.

In his "Seven Pillars of Wisdom," Lawrence describes Arab troops entering liberated Damascus, where "the silent gardens stood blurred green with river mist, in whose setting shimmered the city, beautiful as ever, like a pearl in the morning sun."

The traveler who arrives on the outskirts of modern-day Syria's capital aboard the Hejaz sees a squalid and noisy Palestinian refugee camp and a garbage dump that runs for miles.

End of Camel Caravan

The construction of the Hejaz was a major engineering project. Some 6,000 Turkish soldiers, mostly conscripts, laboured on the railway, braving hostile tribes, cholera outbreaks and sandy terrain prone to violent winter floods.

The line opened in 1908, spelling the end of the old camel caravan, in which pilgrims rode for two months from Damascus to Medina, compared to three days on the train, which had luxury cars for the Sultan and hisentourage.

The military use of the Hejaz by Turkey, allied with Germany during World War One, brought the demise of the railway.

Arab rebels fighting for independence led by Lawrence, an enigmatic British intelligence officer, launched demolition raids against the Hejaz.

Jordan, struggling to boost tourist revenues, has tried to revive the Hejaz with Lawerence-themed tourist packages, but the long hours make the trip unbearable even to backpackers. The region's turbulence also scares away visitors, officials say.

The Amman-Damascus service has been cut to twice a week from four times a week due to poor demand.

Abu Zabdi said he doesn't know how much longer the Hejaz will run but that he will work until his last day.

"The train has been my bread for years. The Hejaz is my home."

http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20050726/lf_ ... awrence_dc
Last edited by Aa3rt on Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

 #152036  by David Benton
 
Thanks for that , interesting reading . I never made it to this area , and it looks like it may be too late soon for this train .
Perhaps it will hang on as a occassional railfan run .
 #152154  by Aa3rt
 
Anyone who's truly interested in viewing the operations of this line may want to pick up the Nick Lera video Rails to Arabia. I have a copy of this in my collection. While the copyright date is 1995, I am unsure when this film was actually made.

The notes on the video's case read: "Rails to Arabia- The Hedjaz Railway in Arabia was assured a place in history by the legendary exploits of Lawrence of Arabia. It was the lifeline of the old Ottoman Empire, which Lawrence set out to destroy. The northern part of the railway survived, however, and this program takes us on a tour by steam locomotive riding through the desert in wooden passenger cars dating from 1910. We steam majestically over stone viaducts in Biblical landscapes up to the Crusader castles of Syria, one of which has its own station right by a Roman amphitheatre. In Damascus, lines of rusting locomotive wrecks, victims of Lawrence's 1918 raids, forlornly await the repair they will never receive, and we end up hauled by a 100-year-old veteran through the spectacular Zebadni Gorge to the Lebanese border overlooking the Beka'a Valley".

That these steam locos have remained at all is amazing, the desert climate has preserved the metal parts (to an extent). Definitely a very interesting video!

 #152265  by Komachi
 
Aa3rt,

I'll echo David's thanks for that bit of info. It's good to see the Middle East represtented here, as well as all the other regions of the world.

Being a historian (well, my BA is in History), I hate to hear that another bit of world history is slowly fading away. Hopefully, the Jordan (and neighboring countries') government(s) will run it every once in a while as a tourist attraction (if things ever calm down enough to warrent such a thing), or at least preserve the equipment in a museum somewhere.

Lawrence was indeed an inegmatic charicter and adds a colorful bit to WWI history.

Maybe the Brits would be willing to aquire some of the equipment?
 #152804  by Aa3rt
 
In a fit of boredom this afternoon, I came across this website on the Hejaz Railway:

http://nabataea.net/hejaz.html