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  • How do you start an engine

  • General discussion about railroad operations, related facilities, maps, and other resources.
General discussion about railroad operations, related facilities, maps, and other resources.

Moderator: Robert Paniagua

 #387971  by gprimr1
 
Assuming you are in Flordia during summer where it's ok to turn the engine off, how would you turn it back on? I imagine on electrics it's as easy as pushing the "panograph up" button and maybe turning a circuit breaker. How about deseil though?

Do you have to sign out the keys to the engine? :P
 #388013  by amtrakhogger
 
In a nutshell,diesel locomotives start somewhat similar to a car. However, with most you must walk outside on the walkway around mid-point on the
engineer's side and open an access door. Inside that door is a two-positon
switch that you must turn in one direction for about 20 seconds or so to
prime the fuel system then turn in the other direction to actually start
the prime mover. Emd's have starter motors similar to a car while
GE's use that main alternator as a starter to start the engine.

 #388128  by CSX-COAL HAULER
 
Dont forget to turn the anti-compasitator throttle lub switch on----ya gotta have it!

 #388350  by ExEMDLOCOTester
 
First you close the battery switch....., then isolate the unit with the isolation switch....
 #388391  by amtrakhogger
 
Well, I was just giving the basic idea without all the gory details.

 #388575  by DutchRailnut
 
One thing on an EMD that needs to be done before starting is barring engine over, either with bar or electric, with cylinder drain plugs open, to avoid starting with water in cylinder as that will destroy the engine in one swift revolution.

 #388594  by Aji-tater
 
There is a really funny narative out there - I even think it was linked on here somewhere long ago - written back in the early days of diesels. I don't remember the title or exact sequence but it describes how the traveling diesel trouble shooter would fire the engine up to the wonder and amazement of all present who presumably were all steam men and who apparently had no clue about the newfangled stink buggies. Maybe somebody can find it and throw a link on here.

 #388643  by GOLDEN-ARM
 
ExEMDLOCOTester wrote:First you close the battery switch....., then isolate the unit with the isolation switch....
The isolation switch was already isolated, or somebody wasn't doing their job properly.......... :wink:

 #388929  by ExEMDLOCOTester
 
GOLDEN-ARM wrote:
ExEMDLOCOTester wrote:First you close the battery switch....., then isolate the unit with the isolation switch....
The isolation switch was already isolated, or somebody wasn't doing their job properly.......... :wink:
I can tell that you never worked at EMD :wink:

 #388930  by ExEMDLOCOTester
 
DutchRailnut wrote:One thing on an EMD that needs to be done before starting is barring engine over, either with bar or electric, with cylinder drain plugs open, to avoid starting with water in cylinder as that will destroy the engine in one swift revolution.
That why you open the CRV's before you crank her over....

OR your EP module will find the problem...

 #389003  by powerpro69
 
Altenativly, you can get the book out of your grip that explains how to start the engine, step by step with pictures...Just in case...you ahem... forget :wink:

 #389155  by GOLDEN-ARM
 
The place I'm at now, actually sends out starting instructions, with the DOB's!!! Evidentally, somebody had issues starting a loco, or NOT starting one, and management decided we were all botards, as well. NO mention of draining cylinders mentioned, in their memo, though........ :P
I've never opened the test cocks, prior to starting a loco, except for two times. On the I&O, we were told to grab an engine, from McCullough shop, and head out to rescue a stalled train. The only loco available, that wasn't dead on the law, or down for mechanical defects (like a shattered drawbar, thanks Mayfield) was a Geep 40. I went through the procedure to start her, but only clicking came from the starters. Several more attempts and the same results. I called the RH foreman, to ask him to send someone to jump the loco, for us. He said help was "on the way". I had to notify the manager on duty, as well. I called the TM on duty and he said the loco had "issues", and to just hold the start switch, and eventually it would crank. I tried again, and after about 30 seconds of holding the start switch, she finally turned over, and started. She then died, about 15 seconds later, with no resets being tripped. (CC, LOP, LW, OS) We decided to power-nap, while awaiting the mechanic. He finally arrived, and we explained the deal to him. He then informed us, this loco had a cracked head, and was due for some shop time. He began opening test cocks, and the number six cylinder, when opened, poured out almost a gallon of water. After draining the cylinder, and turning it over with this cylinder open, it fired and ran. after a few seconds, he shut the cock, and said we were good to go. The engine ran fine, with no knocking, and no apparent damage, other than the original cracked head. Most locos are "just started", without draining first. How many EMD's have you been on, without a bar welded on the cock, to open it? When was the last time you saw a test cock wrench? Last week, a loco we had, wouldn't crank over, until we opened the cocks, and relieved the pressure. (weak batteries) As she started turning over (the cndr was cranking it) I started closing cocks, until she fired. She was running, with huge blasts of fuel and air, and sometimes fire, blasting from the ports, until they closed. This loco had bars welded across the ends of the cocks, to facilitate opening them.
Some roads have requirements for draining cylinders, some don't. Never saw ANY type of fluid flow from a cylinder, until that time on the I&O. Unless there is a leak in the head, the chances of enough water collecting in a cylinder, to actually damage the loco, or to water-lock it, are very slim. Condensation isn't sufficient, to cause this to occur, and there are visible signs, of a coolant leak, into a cylinder anyways. (loss of water, white exhaust, bubbles in the coolant, high water temps, etc) This is how it happens, in the real world. You might get into trouble, "delaying" a job, to blow down cylinders........ :P

 #389178  by Jtgshu
 
I thought the "self purging" feature of the loco meant that you didn't have to open the test cocks - or is this just an option on some locos? I was told the only time it would be necessary to open the test cocks would be if it was sitting for a LONG time dead or after heavy maintence.

You know, for about the first 10 seconds or so cranking when it goes REALLLLLLLLLL slow and then it changes and cranks slightly faster and then its time to play with the layshaft!!! :-)

vroom vroom!!! :-)