How can I get better RR action shots?

Hi;
I have a fantastic DSLR, the Nikon D200, but so far I have been unable to get those really crisp shots I see all the time here and on other sites.
I know pretty much about photography, but let me tell you what I've got, what I'm doing, and then you can tell me what I can do to get better photos.

First off, I am using the Nikon kit lens, which is a 18-70mm f3.5-4.5. It was inexpensive and convenient to buy when I bought the D200 in May 2006.
Now, I know that the most important aspect of taking good shots is lighting. I need to get out there at the right time of day, so that the sun is behind me and on the train.

It helps if the train is not moving, or is moving very slowly. That is not usually the case when I get to photograph trains, since I don't usually go to where they're parked.
They are usually running past me at about 35mph.

I have been using an ISO of 400. Shutter speed is usually between 1/125 and 1/200. Aperture is between f3.5 and f11. I normally use the shutter priority mode.
I have not been using a tripod.

I want to buy a telephoto zoom lens, to get closer up shots, but realize that I will have to use a tripod for those shots.
I am also told that the kit lens Nikon sells is not the best for action photography. It does not have the sharp focus that some of the other lenses have.

So, what can I do without spending $$$ for a Nikkor VR lens?

Thanks

FW

Use a faster shutter speed and smaller aperture. Most railfans shooting fast action set aperture priority to 1/500 and shoot without any problems. Another solution is to always use a tripod. That's one of the biggest points with any type of photography. You'll also need to make sure your shots are indeed focused. Practice focusing on the moving trains and be aware which focus point is active. You can also try to prefocus on the ballast or rails where you want to shoot the train when it shows up, but this requires a bit of thought before the train arrives, something many railfans have proven to lack.

railohio wrote: Most railfans shooting fast action set aperture priority to 1/500 and shoot without any problems.

You mean shutter priority, right?
I don't think I can get 1/500 shutter with the lens I am currently using. That is, unless I increase ISO to 800, which may be OK for web, but not too good if I want an 8x10 of the shot.
I'll have to spend some time with the camera and trackside before the weather gets too cold.

Thanks for the advice.

FW

To stop action, you need a shutter speed of at least 1/250th. 1/500th is even better. I don't think the lens is your problem. If you can set your camera's ISO, you don't even need a high ISO to stop action- even at ISO 100, 1/250 at f8 will stop action on a nice sunny day. Of course, you don't want to be standing right next to the train- you will get leading edge blur. Experiment with your camera's settings and see what you come up with.

CPSK wrote:You mean shutter priority, right?

Yes, that's what I meant.

I get 1/500 with 100 speed film regularly, but I generally only shoot on sunny days. That's another point to raise, cloudy and dark days will limit your ability to shoot sharp photos. On those days you'll need to crank up the ISO setting, get a faster lens, or both!

VR lenses are great, but nothing beats a tripod.

In regards to general "sharpness" you might want to check and make sure that your lens is focusing properly. I've heard reports that the 18-70 sometimes has issues with back focus (focusing behind the subject) or front focus (focusing in front of the subject). There are focus test charts that you can download, print out, and use to check your lens to see whether or not it is focusing properly.

The higher your ISO, the grainer the photo will be. I regulary shoot at 1/400 with an ISO of 100. I use shutter prioity and let the camera set the f stop, which is usually around 4.5-5.6 on a sunny day. This has generated photos good enough for Railpace.

MEC407 wrote:VR lenses are great, but nothing beats a tripod.

VR lenses (which is Nikon terminology, or as Canon calls them, IS Lenses) provide no benefit over ordinary lenses when the subject is moving. They only provide a benefit when you need to shoot handheld at medium to slow shutter speeds (say 1/100 or slower). I agree a tripod is a good investment.

And make sure it's a reasonably heavy tripod. The ones typically sold at Wal-Mart, Target, Ritz Camera, etc., are generally very light weight and will wobble quite easily in a good breeze.

Another useful option is a monopod. Obviously they won't eliminate camera shake completely, but they will give you added stability and they are extremely portable. I keep one underneath the seat of my vehicle. Good to have on hand for those spur-of-the-moment grab shots when the tripod is at home or you don't have enough time to setup the tripod.

Most of the time, it is the lens, and not the camera. I have a friend who owns a Canon EOS Digital Rebel (the first one, 6.3 mp.) If he puts a kit-grade lens on it, the prints can't go much above 5x7, or they look like junk. On the other hand, if he mounts his L-Series lens, I've seen them blown to 16x20, and they are fine.
On the topic of shutter speed, I get fine shots with a 1/500-1/1000 speed.

Can't speak for Canon kit lenses, but some Nikon kit lenses come highly regarded. Depends on the kit lens.

I don't know about your friend's printer, but if a Canon EOS Digital Rebel produces images at 3072x2048, I find it hard to believe you could blow it up to 16x20 and get good results. Most printers need 240 dpi, and 240 times 16x20 means you don't get enough pixels from a Canon EOS Digital Rebel to do a good job at 16x20.

Depends on viewing distance. Would that 16x20 look good if you're holding it in your hands and viewing it up close? Probably wouldn't be all that impressive. But hanging on a wall and being viewed at a normal distance, it would probably look fine.

I've made 8x10s from an ancient 2-megapixel camera and they look great unless I'm pressing my nose against them. A lot of it has to do with technique. You can have a $10,000 camera with a $2,000 lens and still make a $#!tty photo. A really good photographer can use a $4 disposable camera and make a masterpiece.

dj_paige wrote:Can't speak for Canon kit lenses, but some Nikon kit lenses come highly regarded. Depends on the kit lens.

I don't know about your friend's printer, but if a Canon EOS Digital Rebel produces images at 3072x2048, I find it hard to believe you could blow it up to 16x20 and get good results. Most printers need 240 dpi, and 240 times 16x20 means you don't get enough pixels from a Canon EOS Digital Rebel to do a good job at 16x20.

I was looking at it hung on a wall from about 3 maybe 4 feet away. I'm sure that If I pressed up to it, it would look like junk, but... I didn't.
AFAIR, the kits on the XSi, and the Xs are better than those on, lets say the XTi, and the XT... I hope at least .

It seems like every photo i take needs to be sharpened(to look better) with the editing software, is it typical to sharpen most photos? or does that mean i am not shooting right?

thanks

Triker wrote:It seems like every photo i take needs to be sharpened(to look better) with the editing software, is it typical to sharpen most photos? or does that mean i am not shooting right?

thanks

You might be using too slow of a shutter speed to capture the trains motion. My advice would be to use a faster shutter speed. if it comes out too dark, make the f/stop faster, and boost he ISO if you're using digital, or use a higher speed film, if you're shooting film.