Alclad2: Passenger Train at Model Railroad Club

Hello Crew,

Recently I visited the Suncoast Model Railroad Club to bring over samples of HO passenger cars that I metalized with Alclad2 in various finishes. Great group of friendly modelers. My wife and I took over 40 photos. Below are some of the better shots. My apologies since the photo quality isn't outstanding as they were taken with an Apple Tablet, which picks up florescent lighting rather oddly. My reliable camera's batteries went "kaputz" earlier (talk about timing!). This is the 2nd assembled group I've shown samples to and documented responses.

The members present understood that I was a volunteer tester for Alclad2 and that Tony Hipp is gathering feedback from passenger train modelers before releasing the new easy-to-use formulas on to the market. I requested that the group be blunt about the finishes. Responses were positive and constructive; especially from the club's president, who is knowledgeable about prototype rail passenger equipment and operations. I forwarded the responses from the group to Tony. His idea is to keep this as simple and user friendly as possible.

Although there are many variables in real life, for this to keep it simple, there are 4 BASIC categories:

A. New/Restored Appearance: Excellent condition. 1 to 5 years average age. High Reflectivity. Dark SS tone.

B. Moderate Age/Wear Appearance: Very Good/ Well Maintained Condition. 5 to 15 year average age range; Good to Moderate Reflectivity. Medium to Dark SS tone.

C. Aged Appearance: Generally clean; but worn SS surface that has lightened in color. Moderate Reflectivity. Light SS tone.

D. Neglected Appearance: Faded surface; Low SS reflectivity. Light SS tone.

I have Categories A thru C represented. There is much more detail but that's putting it simply.
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The Apple Tablet has no flash, so florescent lighting can cast some odd effects.

This "Riv" coach was donated to the Club. I refinished it into Category B:


Interestingly, the units I had refinished in Category B were the most liked. I based that finish on several photos from rail photographer/modeler Stan Jackowski and Jason Shron of Rapido, both who very graciously allowed me to use their photos as reference, as well as my research into #7 and #8 prototype reflective stainless steel finishes. Here is a comparison between an SCL prototype photographed by Stan and the Category B coach (outdoor photo) I refinished for the club:



These two Riv units are Category C while the Riv Coach and Walthers diner are in Categories B & A, respectively:


Contrasts: Rivarossi Diner: Category C .......................... Rivarossi Coach: Category B


Shots of the SCL streamliner headed by ex-ACL E6A "race horse" #502.


Here are a couple of shots with one of Stan Jackowski's beautiful El Capitan units parked next to the SCL train, then coupled on to the train's diner.


There are more photos but I plan on using my camera for better photos next time. I did not weather the bodies as my intent was to show the actual finishes.

Please keep in mind that this is not intended to compete with Walthers and Rapido, but rather to complement them as an option for modelers wanting to build up their own "Steel Fleets". The intent is to bring passenger car modeling to a higher, more realistic and enjoyable level.

Please remember that SS finishes vary on prototypes, even within the same manufacturer. It's OK to run multiple finishes within the same train, but the choice is always yours. Also remember that SS finishes vary on prototypes, even within the same manufacturer. Cool factor is that you choose your finish.

Here's a nice example from David Graham. Look at the two Budds:


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Many "Thank Yous" to the Suncoast Model Railroader's Club's membership and president, Jim Langston, for willing to help out in this and for allowing me to display the units on the club's beautiful layout. Super group of guys and Thanks again to Stan Jackowski and Rapido's owner Jason Shron. Also to the Tampa Bay Railroad Prototype Modeler's Group for their input during their last gathering.

Really sharp looking! Thanks for sharing the photos!

-otto-

They're remaking Alclad2?

I Still have a crap ton of Alclad for all my Arrows, Silverliners, amfleets and metroliners. In what way are they making a new formulation?

green_elite_cab wrote:They're remaking Alclad2?

I Still have a crap ton of Alclad for all my Arrows, Silverliners, amfleets and metroliners. In what way are they making a new formulation?

Hi Green Elite,

Don't worry, you're in good shape. The current formula you have will work fine. The primary change is in the basecoat colors. Several shades of grays will be available. The gray you choose determines the tone's appearance (new, good, aged, worn). So instead of having to use a Scale Coat II gray for your base color and wait several days for it to cure before applying the metalizer over it, you'll be apply Alclad's gray and be able to coat it with the metalizer in just 20 minutes. Then seal with clear and apply your decals. If the finish needs to be toned further, apply additional coats of clear.

The metalizer formulas will be adjusted slightly and will have railroad related names but those persons already using 107 won't have to sell or get rid of what they have.

AntonioFP45 wrote:

green_elite_cab wrote:They're remaking Alclad2?

I Still have a crap ton of Alclad for all my Arrows, Silverliners, amfleets and metroliners. In what way are they making a new formulation?

Hi Green Elite,

Don't worry, you're in good shape. The current formula you have will work fine. The primary change is in the basecoat colors. Several shades of grays will be available. The gray you choose determines the tone's appearance (new, good, aged, worn). So instead of having to use a Scale Coat II gray for your base color and wait several days for it to cure before applying the metalizer over it, you'll be apply Alclad's gray and be able to coat it with the metalizer in just 20 minutes. Then seal with clear and apply your decals. If the finish needs to be toned further, apply additional coats of clear.

The metalizer formulas will be adjusted slightly and will have railroad related names but those persons already using 107 won't have to sell or get rid of what they have.

I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing any unnecessary work. I've been using the Chrome and the Alclad gloss black basecoat, so I think I'm set.

green_elite_cab wrote:
............... I've been using the Chrome and the Alclad gloss black basecoat, so I think I'm set.

Green Elite,

You're using black as your basecoat foundation? Respectfully, the use of black often results in a tone that's a bit too dark for replicating the tonal appearance of SS railroad units. This is why, after experimenting, I discovered that using the medium to dark gray tones yields results closer to the prototypes.

AntonioFP45 wrote:

green_elite_cab wrote:
............... I've been using the Chrome and the Alclad gloss black basecoat, so I think I'm set.

Green Elite,

You're using black as your basecoat foundation? Respectfully, the use of black often results in a tone that's a bit too dark for replicating the tonal appearance of SS railroad units. This is why, after experimenting, I discovered that using the medium to dark gray tones yields results closer to the prototypes.

Not at all, it comes out just right. after the 4th coat or so, the chrome comes out just fine. the gloss black is for the purposes of making a super smooth surface.

The real trick is making the "dull" parts separate from the metalic parts without damaging the sensitive metallic paint. It doesn't seem like a paint one can easily mask over.

green_elite_cab wrote:

AntonioFP45 wrote:

green_elite_cab wrote:
............... I've been using the Chrome and the Alclad gloss black basecoat, so I think I'm set.

Green Elite,

You're using black as your basecoat foundation? Respectfully, the use of black often results in a tone that's a bit too dark for replicating the tonal appearance of SS railroad units. This is why, after experimenting, I discovered that using the medium to dark gray tones yields results closer to the prototypes.

Not at all, it comes out just right. after the 4th coat or so, the chrome comes out just fine. the gloss black is for the purposes of making a super smooth surface.

The real trick is making the "dull" parts separate from the metalic parts without damaging the sensitive metallic paint. It doesn't seem like a paint one can easily mask over.

GreenElite,

Yes, I agree about the importance of a very smooth surface. Absolutely. A rough surface will destroy the effect.

What I was referring to was the color tone of the stainless steel effect compared to the prototype rail cars. Black works nicely for the appearance of stainless that's brand "spanking" new, but for SS appearance that have a few years on them, I discovered in my experimenting that varying shades of gray bring the appearance closer to the prototypes as in the photo below where I compared one of my refinished units to a prototype Budd:



Not criticizing you, but just indicating that with this we can tune in the look we want (brand new, a few years young, older but in good shape, worn, etc).

Didn't take it as criticism, that "Shine" makes a real difference!

Still gonna have to figure out which best matches the silverliners and Arrows, but its good to know there are paints out there specifically for matching these "railroad" shades!