• Troubleshooting an American Flyer 322AC

  • Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.

Moderators: 3rdrail, stilson4283, Otto Vondrak

  by robk46
 
My mother-in-law would like me to get the family train working again. It's an American Flyer 322AC, and I'm using an American Flyer 12B transformer. So far, I've checked the wiring for breaks (http://www.trainweb.org/s-trains/diagram/basic.htm), measured AC voltage to the tracks (8-15v), and verified that the reverse relay clicks. The train will not move. If I put a 9v DC battery to the motor terminals, the front light bulb will light, but if I have the car that provides the power plugged into it, the bulb does not light. Does anyone have a diagram that shows what voltage I should be getting at the motor terminals? I assume I should be getting the same as the track. . .

Thanks.
  by geep39
 
Hey Rob:

Are ya still there? I usually check other parts of the net, and I stumbled onto this one and saw your post. I was just over at a friend's house and showed him a few tricks, so I'm "in the Flyer fixer" mode.

First, unplug the tender from the engine, remembering which way you plugged it in. Then, turn the engine over. Take your two wires from your transformer, and put them into the OUTER holes in the board at the back of the engine cab. Then, take another wire, and stick it into the two CENTER holes. You can also short the two center recepticles with a screwdriver. Your engine should roar to life, if everything's OK up front.

Usually, the problem is in the reverse unit in the tender. They can be a little cantankerous after all these years. For that, you'll have to remove the four screws on each corner of the tender. Check to see if all the wires leading from the plug to the connections they are soldered to are all conducting electricity like they should. This is a common problem, considering that the engine no doubt ran around an oval of track.

Try that so far, and let me know how you make out, and we'll tackle the reverse unit. OK?

Steve